Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Cruise Planners - On The Road - Sailing on Ama Dara on the Mekong River Delta - Day 2

After a day of passing pastoral countryside along the river bank and boat rides through floating villages, we headed ashore on our second day aboard Ama Dara.  First up - a spiritual experience at the Oudong Monastery.

After a short - 20 minute or so bus ride - from our docking location, we arrived at the Oudong Monastery.  Oudong was Cambodia's capital from 1618 to 1865 and today, the Vipassan Dhura Monastery in Oudong is the largest in Cambodia.

Our highlight was the Buddhist Blessing which led off our visit.  We were all seated in a large room on woven mats facing the monks who were preparing to bless us.  Ensuring we kept our feet from facing our hosts, the chanting began.  Led by the senior monk, the chanting was accomplished in perfect harmony - kind of in a challenge by the senior monk and a response by the junior monks.  The sound, rhythm, and cadence was so calming and helped us relax, focusing on the chant. When, several minutes later we could feel flowers raining down on us, it was if we had been transported and hours instead of minutes had passed.  When the chanting stopped and we opened our eyes again, we were surrounded by the sight and smell of Plumeria flowers which the monks had used to consecrate our blessing.  We both took videos of the blessing ceremony -- playing them back later took us right back to the state of relaxation we'd experienced live.
This is the building where we received our blessing.






After a hard morning of dedication and study, the monks gather and head to lunch

Monk's luncheon hall

The Monastery grounds are beautiful
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If you're from Florida, you have to take all the 'Gater pictures


After our visit to the Monastery, it was back to our buses for a half hour ride to Kampong Tralach.  Kampong Tralach is a small agricultural town surrounded by a number of new factories being set up by foreign manufacturers to take advantage of relatively cheap land and labor prices in Cambodia.  The contrast -- between new factories springing up in former rice paddies -- and our next adventure couldn't have been sharper.  Next up, an ox cart ride for about 60 Ama Dara passengers...

The ox carts and their drivers were lined up on the road along side small, neatly kept homes and rice paddies.  Ox carts are the traditional means of agricultural transportation in this part of Cambodia; interestingly enough, small two wheeled tractors that to our eyes look like large roto-tillers with rubber tires -- and called by locals, "Japanese Buffaloes" -- are slowly replacing Oxen as the way to pull the farmers carts.  Interestingly enough, this is the same transition I saw in South Korea back in the mid-70's.  In one field, a farmer has an ox pulling the plow through the rice paddy, in the next, the other farmer is using one of these mechanical tools to pull his plow through the soil.

The ride itself was a really nice experience - Valerie and I were sitting in the back while our driver sat on a small seat and encouraged our ox along.  While we were trotting along, small kids from the village came out to see us and talk with us while we moved along.  One of the older kids gave us a hand drawn picture -- made us feel so special; like our being there had brought a little excitement to the kids of Kampong Tralach.  After our ride, we had another 30 minute ride back to Ama Dara and another amazing lunch.  While we were eating lunch, Ama Dara pulled away from the river bank and headed south to Phnom Penh.







Ornate Blessing Hall

Monks preparing for blessing


Getting ready to take off on Oxcart ride

Newly planted rice paddy 


Sunday, September 13, 2015

Cruise Planners - On The Road - Sailing on Ama Dara on the Mekong River Delta

One of the things we love about Ama Waterways River Cruises is the full (completely inclusive) itinerary they put on for you.  With local guides at each stop to explain history and culture, you learn so much about the places you are visiting. Meanwhile, the chefs aboard are creating local delicacies for lunch and dinner - it really is a 360 degree travel experience...  Following will be blog entries on each stop we made along the way: Kampong Chhnang, Ko Chen, Oudong, Kampong Tralach, Phnom Penh, Tan Chau, Sa Dec, Cai Be, My Tho, and Ho Chi Minh City.

First up, Kampong Chhnang, Cambodia...
Kampong Chhnang is at the southern tip of the big lake (Tonle Sap Lake). Siem Reap is at the Northwest tip of the same lake.

Ama Dara anchored mid-stream and small local boats came out to pick up the excursion groups.  Each group had their own local, English speaking guide and each guest had a small headset giving you the ability to hear your guide from 50'.

Ama Dara anchored mid-stream

Boarding our boats

Beautiful Tourists










































Leaving Ama Dara to see Floating Village



We headed south and then turned east into a channel leading us to Kampong Chhnang.  Kampong Chhnang is a combination of Floating Village and small shoreside town.

Shoreside Town

Floating Village

We spent most of our time taking a close look at how a floating village is built, what it is composed of, and the lives of people who spend their lives afloat.

Taxi















So, if you live in a floating village, there has to be a floating equivalent of Uber, right? Depicted above is a mom and her son being taxied from one side of the floating village to the other.

Bamboo used to float the village homes
The homes, stores, meeting halls, and businesses making up the float village which encompassed both banks of the river are essentially homes built in place on top of long bamboo logs that form the primary floating foundation for the homes.  According to our guides, the individual bamboo logs (stalks?) are replaced every 2-3 years as they become water logged and begin to rot.  You can also see the bamboo is supplemented by more modern floatation aids in the form of blue or white plastic barrels lashed under the home floors alongside the bamboo.


One of our tour boats















Floating Main Street

Fish are a major component of their diet

Ferry from one side of the river to the other
So you might ask, who are these folks who live on the river and what's their story?  According to our guide, the majority of these folks are ethnic Vietnamese who have been there in many instances for more than one generation.  Those born in Cambodia receive citizenship papers but as is often the case, if you are different, there is a level of prejudice present even after so many years.  The reason these folks initially started living on the river is that they immigrated from Vietnam and found that living on the river was a lot cheaper than trying to buy and build a home ashore.  

After a two hour two, we headed back to Ama Dara in time for lunch - and oh what a lunch...  
"Action Station"













The finished product - Yuuummm



















We started enjoying noodle soups for breakfast and lunch when we arrived in Bangkok.  We are sure that having soup for breakfast and lunch aboard Ama Dara is a key reason we both lost weight for the first time on a cruise - it wasn't as if we weren't eating a ton - because we were - and enjoying every bit of it.  But I think the soup just tended to fill us up and keep our appetite satisfied better than what we typically eat for breakfast and lunch here at home.

Leaving Kampong Chhnang

Beautiful view from our sun deck cabin

Pastoral scene along the river
After lunch, we headed south on the river, bound for Koh Chen and our afternoon tour ashore.  Koh Chen is a small village on the banks of the Mekong that is known for its silver smithing.  A number of families in town have passed their craft from generation to generation - we visited one of these families and were introduced to their craftsmanship - and how to tell Sterling silver from plated silver.

Our guide Sophia explaining how things are made

Everyone in the family has a skill


After our visit to the silver shop, we took a walk through the village to the local elementary school.  Here at the school, the teacher introduced us to the kids and our guide helped serve as an interface between the kids and cruisers. It was a really wonderful experience -- education beyond grade school is still a big deal in rural Cambodia - but these kids had a ton of enthusiasm for learning.  How do you learn about cultures when you travel?  You walk out into their villages and start to learn how they live, how they learn, and how they eat.  This was a wonderful day starting our Cambodian education.


Class welcomes us

Valerie talking with a rapt audience of young girls - they were able to keep up a pretty decent conversation in English - amazing to think about in a small village on the Mekong Delta.


Good shot of the headsets we used to listen to our guide's stories.


Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Cruise Planners - On the Road - Embark Day and a Fear Factor, Road Trip White Out...

So August 17th, 2015 has finally arrived...  Been planning our inaugural cruise about Ama Dara since November 2014 and now - Lake and River water levels are down - bus trip is up...

Mr. Son - our Ama Waterways Cruise Director gathered and processed everyone in the lobby of the Sofitel with a minimum of effort and stress.  We were all assigned to one of four colors - blue, yellow, green, and orange - which corresponded to ribbons on our bags and the bus we would be boarding for the 5.5 hour bus trip from Siem Reap to our low water boarding area at Prek Dam.
Gathering in the Lobby
The buses were comfortable and each had their own Ama Waterways tour guide to fill us in along the way - talking about the various areas, how it was growing up in Cambodia and stories shared from their parents about the bad times in Cambodia.
The countryside along the way was very pastoral
Along the way we were introduced to the term "Happy House", as in "We will have Happy House stop in 2 1/2 hours..."  We were also introduced to "Road Massage" and finally to the concept of dust white outs on the highway.  Happy House as you might have guessed is the Cambodian term for comfort stop.  Our first stop was at a road side cafe - gave us our first view of the Tonle Sap Lake.
Tonle Sap Lake as seen from our first Rest Stop
I think that Road Massage and White Outs are very closely related.  We had been warned that the road got a little rough - which was absolutely true.  Seems like road work in Cambodia proceeds at glacial pace or not at all. One side of the road would be paved; the other would be dust, dirt, and pot holes and with the amount of traffic on the road throwing up the dust, there were times when you literally could not see 10 feet in front of the bus - since we were right behind the driver and could see what he (couldn't be) was seeing, this is not an exaggeration.  We couldn't believe it the first time it happened so we didn't get a picture - after the first time, we had the camera ready - this picture doesn't do justice to what it looked like because you can still actually see the bus in front of us.
This looks more like a Brown vice White Out

After another 90 minutes, we had our second stop - aka the Spider stop.  After a good amount of Road Massage, the line to the Happy House was plenty long.  Once everyone was done, the Fear Factor Follies began...  

Crickets, Tarantulas, Assorted Bugs anyone?

Several passengers and one of our guides had a snack




About 45 minutes later, just as the sun started to play hide and go seek with a few rain clouds, we caught our first glimpse of the Ama Dara, moored bow first on the river bank.  This was our first indication that river cruising on the Mekong will be a little different than on the Danube or Mosel in Europe.
Ama Dara moored on the bank

As soon as our buses pulled up, the embarkation party and celebration began with a celebratory Dragon dance to chase evil spirits away and guarantee us smooth sailing.  Our gang way is actually extended from the ship directly onto the river bank - no pier at all - mooring lines were attached to trees along the river bank.  Worked really well but our crew had to work pretty hard to pull the mooring lines through the trees and reeds to get them attached.
Dragon Dance

Ama Dara gangway






























Our sail-away was smooth and we headed north on the Tonle Sap...

Brown Water cruising...

Sun Deck was a great place to watch our sail away






The natural beauty of the Lake and River at sunset




After our obligatory life jacket and emergency procedures drill, we all gathered in the Saigon Lounge for our Welcome Aboard greeting.  We had colorful local dances, the Captain's introduction of his crew, and a personal welcome by our host, Ama Waterways CEO, Rudy Schreiner.  After the festivities, it was time for our first dinner aboard and a restful night's sleep anchored mid-stream on the river.
Welcome dance by Cambodian troupe