Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Twenty Four Days by Land and Sea - 48 Hours in Venice to Catch a Cruise - It's all about Draggin' your Bag

We are always up for learning new ways to travel or experience places we're going to see.  In this case, we thought we'd experience Venice by spending our days exploring Venice, and our evenings in Mestre, the mainland city connected by bridge to Venice.  Our learning objective had to do with the logistics of getting to a cruise ship from our pre-cruise hotel - so, what did we learn?

Location of our hotel (top left) and cruise terminal (right center)
We have walked all over Venice (Venezia in Italian) and have stayed in hotels on Venice and across the Guidecca Strait on Guidecca Island.  The issue for cruisers when you are staying on one of the islands is how to handle your bags.  You can get on a water taxi from the airport or you can get off the train at the Venice train station in Piazzale Roma.


Now, how are you going to get your bags either directly to the ship or to your hotel if you are staying in the Venice pre-cruise?

From the airport you can catch a "land" taxi (to distinguish it from water taxi) that will take you across the bridge and directly to your ship since the cruise terminal on the northwest end of the island is accessible by car or bus.  While we haven't done it ourselves, it appears you can also take a water taxi (though it might take a transfer or two unless you want to pay for a private ($$$) (as opposed to public) water taxi to take you the cruise port.  On a public water taxi, you are handling your bags onto and off the boat.

If you are arriving early in Venice, you will have two challenges...  1) Getting to your hotel and 2) Getting from your hotel to the cruise ship terminal.  In both cases, the challenge is getting your bags there with you.  Why?  Because the only part of Venice with auto access is the northwest corner of Venice where the trains, buses, ships arrive and depart.  Guess what?  No hotels on the northwest corner of the island...

As it is with all things, if you are willing to spend a fair amount of money, all of these issues go away - you arrange or have your travel agent arrange for private water taxis to and from your hotel, then you book a high end hotel with direct water taxi access, and have your water taxi driver call your hotel as you arrive to deal with your bags.  Having researched hotel prices on or near the Grand Canal recently, the hotels that fall into this category are going to set you back at least 500 Euros/night while the pricier ones exceed 1000 Euro's/night.

But with luggage for 24 days and taking a cruise ship from Venice for the first time, we figured there had to be a better way to deal with things.  So utilizing my advanced map reading skills (?which way is north again?) and reading a few blogs and Trip Advisor pieces, we decided to look at hotels in Mestre -- the city right across the bridge from Venice.

Mestre is a "regular" city, home to many Italians who work daily at shops, hotels, and attractions on Venice.  The public transportation infrastructure from Mestre to Venice is really good - buses, trams, and taxis come and go on a frequent and regular schedule.  My first experience with the public transport system was getting back to our hotel from dropping off our rental car at the Euro Car counter in Piazzale Roma.  After paying for my 1.50 Euro ticket at the counter (good for 75 minutes of riding buses and trams) and using the helpful "how to" instructions from Hotel Villa Barbarich Hotel Villa Barbarich, I boarded the Red Tram and headed back across the bridge from Venice to Mestre.

At the end of the Tram line (Mestro Central -- Piazalle Cialdini), I walked across the bus station to catch the bus back to our hotel at Lane B3 (look for buses with "Noale" or "Scorze" in their destination sign).  Since we were staying at Hotel Villa Barbarich, I got off at stop #98 -- Via Castellana 4/32.  All in all this ride took about 35 minutes and the walk from the bus stop to the hotel was about 5 minutes.

Mike, Liz, Valerie, and I reversed these directions the next morning when we headed into Venice to see the sights.  Having done it once, the second time was like riding a bicycle -- and can't argue about the price -- according to the hotel, taxis are 30 Euros each way; we paid 6 Euros each way for the 4 of us.  In the late afternoon, we headed back to the hotel -- a little curve ball on this trip since the tram service was interrupted but 5 minutes later, a bus arrived to pick up the tram passengers and honestly, it took about the same amount of time to reach our Mestro Central transfer point.  So taking travel both ways into account, a day of sightseeing in Venice cost us 12 Euros and about an hour and ten minutes travel time.  Not a bad trade off, especially since the next morning, our taxi -- arranged by Hotel Villa Barbarich, arrived promptly at 11:00.  For a cost of 35 euros, we arrived 25 minutes later at our cruise ship embarkation point having to drag our bags a grand total of 40 yards for check-in. Wonderfully convenient and cost effective.

We really enjoyed our stay at Hotel Villa Barbarich - a lovely property that will henceforth be known in my vocabulary as the "No Problem" hotel.  Whenever I went down to the desk to ask a favor, the answer I received was, "No Problem".  I have not stayed at many hotels where this was the case and I had a couple of challenges to solve during our stay -- one involved sending a room key back to our previous hotel.  In the end, they made everything easy for us -- perfect.



Our room was wonderfully decorated with a comfortable bed and marble bathroom.  Our room included a balcony overlooking the courtyard and a small stream below -- we actually saw what looked like a beaver or muskrat swimming into its home one evening.

Our included breakfast was served in a magnificent restaurant and was the best breakfast we'd enjoyed at any of our hotels along the way.




After our huge lunch -- a separate blog post by itself -- on our arrival day and a late lunch in Venice on our walking tour day, we ended up having the front desk order pizza delivery for us ("No Problem").  There is nothing quite like eating pizza, drinking a robust red wine from Chianti, and sitting on your balcony watching the sun set and moon rise with the best of friends.










Thursday, May 26, 2016

Twenty Four Days By Land and Sea - Greve in Chianti with Rosanna and Giancarlo for a Birthday Surprise

May 18th - my sweetie girl's birthday - time for another surprise...

After getting our car reloaded, we headed out of Oriveto for Greve in Chianti, about three or so hours away.  We were driving in Tuscany on one of those flawless spring days that make you glad to be alive.  Red poppies littered field after field along the way.  The sun was shining, the grain in the fields knee high and light green; contrasting with the darker green of Italian cypress on many of the hills along the way.  And some of those hills along the way...  Montepulciano, Pienza, Siena and many little towns in between.

Hills between Montepulciano and Pienza
View of the countryside around Pienza
We were on a mission today... Unbeknownst to Valerie, we were meeting our best Italian friends for lunch at Castello di Tornano. Back in 2008, we'd stayed at Castello di Tornano while visiting the 2008 Chiati Classico release festival in Greve in Chianti.  When thinking about places to stay on our three day road trip from Rome to Venice, Castello di Tornano was at the top of our list since we'd so enjoyed our last visit.

After a 3 1/2 drive, we rolled into the Castello (castle) just in time to meet Rosanna and Giancarlo who were just then parking and getting ready to unload.  I asked Valerie to get out and find out what these people were doing.  When she saw it was Rosanna, she knew I'd managed to surprise her again...  Rosanna and Giancarlo had driven almost 5 hours from Cesinali to join us for Val's birthday celebration.  Mike and Liz were in on the secret so throughly enjoyed the hopping around and squealing that went on while Valerie and Rosanna hugged and kissed hello.
Castello di Tornano



As with all proper re-acquaintances with Italian friends, we sat down for lunch together to catch up.  Our host, Victor, served us Castello di Tornano label red wine (vino rosso di Castello in this instance) and started us with traditional Tuscan cheeses and meats, followed later by pasta and dessert.  We ate outside under artistically hung canvas "sails" and delighted in the beautiful spring weather we were enjoying.











When you only see each other in person every two years, there is a lot of catching up to do, but first, our rooms...

When we planned our trip, I asked Mike and Liz if they'd ever stayed in a castle.  Since the answer was "No", we figured we needed to add this to our itinerary.  Honestly, we were not disappointed.  Our rooms were on the 4th story of the castle's tower, side by side, and beautifully decorated.  We had beautiful views from two sides of our room and when we ventured up to the tower's roof top (with sun shades and furniture), we had a 360 degree view of the beautiful Tuscan countryside.

My Lady looking over her dominion from the top of the castle keep


Fit for a Birthday Princess...



View from one of our windows













When your best Italian friends are wine makers and nationally recognized sommeliers, what do you do for an afternoon?  You go out and taste wines of the region you are visiting, in this case, Chianti Classico, and Chianti Classico Riserva -- but first, how about a nice, uphill hike to another nearby castle (Castello di Brolio)Castello di Brolio to warm up (and burn off some of that lunch)?

Warming up for wine tasting with a steep hilltop hike

Wine Tasting at Enoteca del Castello di Brolio
Wine tasting with a Sommelier and a "Woman of Wine" is an awesome experience -- especially since our wine tasting host, Melanie, could perhaps envision her own future leading to becoming a Sommelier too.  We tasted a Rose', three different Chianti Classico's (two of these were Riserva's - 2011 and 2012), and a Merlot.  We found the Chianti's and their Sangiovese grapes to be a bit "young"; still tartly tannic and needing some age to soften.  The girls all liked the Merlot best -- and as Rosanna put it, the Merlot had a more "International" taste.  International in this case referring to the fact that the wine was made to provide immediate appeal to your palate - truly ready to drink rather than ready to be released and put away for 6-15 years.




After our wine tasting, we drove out into the fields where Rosanna provided a beautiful moment captured in pictures...  The wine maker walked out into the field and looked at the grapes, their soil, and sun exposure -- taking a few minutes to commune with the natural surroundings.
Rosanna communing with the grapes


Rosanna and Giancarlo relaxing in Tuscany













On the way back to our castle, we dropped into nearby Giaole in Chianti to make sure we got our picture with our Chianti Chicken.


Now that we were on a roll, might as well keep going so we took Victor up on his offer of taking Aperitif's in our Castle's cellar before dinner.  Next up was our own private table on the Castle's main floor set beside a small sitting room with a beautiful fire to keep us toasty and warm.

Time for appetizers and sparkling wine in the Castle cellar


Dinner was a four course affair -- and very tasty.  We didn't know then, that the dinner was included in our room rate - wow.  So with the help of our friends, US and Italian, we made Valerie's birthday a landmark memory - can't ask for more than that.








Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Twenty Fours Days in Europe by Land and Sea - Orvieto

After waking up, I headed over to Euro Car to pick up the car we'd rented through Auto Europe.  Everything was flawless and ready to go.  They were kind enough to allow me to leave the car parked in the garage while I picked up our friends arriving from Miami via Al Italia.  With Mike and Liz in tow, we got the car packed up and headed over to the Hilton to pick up Valerie and the rest of our bags.  Our rental car, a Fiat 500L Station Wagon managed all our bags and gave each of us plenty of leg room for the trip from Fiumicino to Orvieto.

4 People - 24 days - Not bad

The drive was easy and uneventful - Co-Pilot Live (Europe) got us directly to Hotel Duomo, our first night stop.  It was fun to be driving in Italy again and traffic on Rome's outskirts and onto the Autostrada was an easy way to break yourself back in again.  Orvieto is a beautiful hilltop town in Umbria, but so close to Tuscany that we consider it the gateway for any of our Tuscan visits when driving up A1 (as opposed to coming up the coast roads west of Rome).

Hotel Duomo was a nicely appointed 3 Star hotel directly adjacent to the Duomo (main church). Hotel Duomo
Orvieto Duomo
The room was clean, bed was nice, and bathroom properly laid out.  Our 2nd floor room opened up onto an alley giving us the ability to look out and surveil passerby's like proper Italians.  Our included breakfast the next morning was a good continental style affair with Italian brewed coffee of your choice.  A key consideration to our stay at Hotel Duomo was that they offer parking (18 E/day) in a private garage.  We had stayed in Orvieto back in 2008 at Hotel Piccolomini and we ended up parking our car at the base of the hill and walking up into town after dropping our bags.  At Hotel Duomo, we parked our car right in front of the hotel, unloaded our bags and they whisked it away until the next morning - really convenient.

After getting settled, we ran up to the Duomo piazza for lunch.  The first place we tried said they were closed so we went next door and sat down.  Our first lunch in Italy was good, priced reasonably (except for the wine), and we got a great recommendation for dinner that night.

Our first meal in Italy
After a tour through the town to walk our lunch off and take a few pictures, we started looking for mischief...  That's when we found the Orvieto Underground tour - at 5 Euro's each, it was a great price and our guide both knowledgeable and well spoken.  During our hour long tour, we saw a very small part (2 of more than 1,000 caves or subterranean rooms) of the catacombs under today's medieval city.  Our guide noted that most every building in the city has a cave or subterranean room, generally used today for wine and/or cheese storage and dating back in many cases to Etruscan (pre-Roman empire) times.  One of the "Oh Reallys..." on our tour were the pigeon holes throughout our first cave - a sign of the cave owner's wealth - since apparently, pigeons were a prized source of food back in the day.  At the end of the tour, we were peeved to note that no one else in our tour group was kind enough to tip our guide - we ended up apologizing to our guide for our group's parsimony...Orvieto Underground
Underground Grain Mill



Underground Pigeon Holes
After a late-afternoon nap, we were out on the prowl again, this time to eat dinner at La Palomba (The Dove) at an appropriately Italian time of 9:15pm.  La Palomba is always busy and we were glad we'd had Hotel Duomo call down and get dinner reservations for us.  The highlight of dinner was having truffles (Tartufo) grated over our pasta - oh how we miss our special Italian truffle places here in Italy.  Back in the USA we've seen 3-figure prices for far less truffle than our waiter put on each of our plates.  Wine was much more reasonable at La Palomba as evidenced by the fact our dinner bill (including three plates of truffled pasta) was less than our lunch bill.  Yep, we're back in Italy - land of very reasonable food prices - unless they hit you with the "tourist" (sucker) "tax" which the guy at lunch had done. La Palomba Restaurant

Add some more truffles please...

4 happy diners at La Palomba


After a nice walk back to the hotel, it was lights out for a good night's sleep before heading into Tuscany (Toscana) on the morrow...



24 days by Land and Sea in Europe - Getting There

This was our first Turkish Airlines experience in twenty years.  After reading other blogs and seeing very positive reviews on Turkish Business Class and Lounge experiences, we were really excited about our flights from Miami (MIA) to Istanbul (IST) and Istanbul to Rome's Leonardo da Vinci (FCO).

The In-flight experience lived up to expectations and set a new bar for our flying and lounge experiences en-route.

I wish the same could be said about the experience getting us into the air.  After interacting with Turkish Airlines reservation centers and On-line tools for more than 6 months leading up to our flight, I think I can categorically state are the worst I have experienced.  Generally speaking, the on-line tools listed as being available, either don't work, or don't work as expected.  On-line check-in -- or more accurately my ability to check Valerie in, but not myself -- followed by the inability of two different Turkish Airlines National Call Center representatives to do it on my behalf before arriving at the airport -- brought needless stress and an earlier than planned departure from home to ensure I actually had a seat on both flights.

Added to this needless complication - which took 15 minutes of unscrewing by the Turkish Airlines agent at Miami International - with no explanation - was the complete inability of Turkish Airlines gate agents to consider allowing us to catch a different IST to FCO flight that was 50% of capacity in Business Class and would have cut our wait time in Istanbul by almost 4 hours.  Now, as stated above the Lounge in Istanbul was the best we'd ever been in, but honestly, I'd rather have been to Rome 4 hours earlier.  The lack of willingness to even try booking us on the earlier flight was a black mark in our book.

Have you ever wondered whether you will be fed on a Red-eye flight that departs at 9pm and despite your best efforts both on-line, on the phone, and at the airport, no one could tell you if you would have dinner service?  So unable to verify we were actually going to be served dinner (breakfast and lunch seemed most likely based on flight time), we ate in the Miami departure lounge.

The shared Business Class/Star Alliance lounge in Miami -- hosted by Avianca - was crowded and noisy.  The food and wine were acceptable; the free wifi was also good enough to catch up on email and FB before wheels up.  Next time, we'll try the adjacent Premier Lounge in the hope for a more serene experience.

But once we aboard, "No" and "Incompetence" were replaced by "Yes" and complete professionalism.

Our lay flat seats were covered by our flight attendant with a seat "pad" analogous to a mattress pad to make the seat a more comfortable bed.


Menus with our names on them were provided as soon as we were wheels up putting to rest our question about dinner -- and making the appetizers we'd grazed on in the lounge feel like lumps of greasy fast food in our belly.
The experience just kept on rolling...  Because in addition to our "By Name" menus, we were given an LED candle to add ambience to our upcoming dining experience which was delivered by elegantly outfitted carts and ordered from appropriately attired Sky Chefs (including Chef Hats) who asked us how we'd like our Filets cooked.









Having done Business/First on Singapore, Upper Class on Virgin Atlantic, United, Lufthansa, Air France, and Delta, I can categorically state this was the most unique and complete dining experience I've experienced aboard an airplane.




The Turkish Airlines lounge in Istanbul was the best we've experienced.  The Singapore Airlines lounge at Changi Airport is wonderful; the Virgin Upper Class lounge at Heathrow is posh -- but neither of them compares to our 6 hour experience in Istanbul.  First off, as Business/First passengers on a long layover, we could and did obtain a "Suite" which provided us a twin bed with fresh sheets, a TV, radio, hangers, and a locked door to rest in during our stay.  When we got out of bed after a couple of hours, we left our bags in the suite and toddled out to get some food - including hand made tortellinis - and to try our hand on the fully up Golf simulator and adjacent slot car track.  Valerie used the Lady's facility on the lower level and came back to grab her phone and take a picture -- it was that beautiful inside.





**** Travel Intelligence Tip ****
If you are traveling through Istanbul and use the Turkish Airlines lounge - head downstairs (it is a two story affair).  Downstairs is newly completed and considerably quieter than the upper floor.  Our main level Suite while an awesome experience was noisy due to increased foot traffic.  There are suites on the lower floor in a much quieter corner of the room.

Our flight from IST to FCO went without a hitch -- and on the 3 hour flight, we were served another great dinner albeit with a little less ambience since we were on a single aisle Airbus.

On arrival in Rome, our bags were waiting for us as soon as we'd cleared passport control - in this instance, our "priority baggage handling" tags really worked.  With nothing to declare, we strolled out and began trying to figure out how to walk to the Rome Airport Hilton - our tactical mistakes were two-fold.  First, we went all the way out to the the curb looking for signs, then we compounded this error by asking a couple of taxi drivers for directions.  The signs to the Hilton were all actually inside the terminal and, if you knew what you were looking for and where, right there on the left when you walked out of customs.  And as for directions, taxi drivers are by definition, "Drivers" - they know how to get from Point A to Point B at the airport by auto - they aren't walking.  So while we managed to get to the Hilton, we did so in the least efficient fashion and if it had been rainy (which fortunately it wasn't) we would have been soaked when we could have walked by sky bridge from our arrival terminal through the parking/rental garage and directly to the front entrance of the Hilton.

Rental Car Offices

Hilton Hotel Icon is top left - start looking on left when you exit Customs and you'll see them


Oh well, live and learn, we were happy we'd picked the Rome Airport Hilton since we had our heads on the pillow 30 minutes after walking out of Customs.
Midnight arrivals put a premium on rapid and hassle free transition from flying to lights out.

Rome Airport Hilton


Tuesday, May 10, 2016

Twelve Day Countdown - Prepping for 24 days on Land & Sea in Europe

I realized today that I have not been a good Travel Blogger.  Not because I haven't chronicled places we've been in the past couple of years, the way we've gotten there, food we've eaten or people we've met along the way.  Rather what I have failed to do is keep up between trips, sharing what we learn between trips as we prepare for the next one.  So today is my first attempt to make up for lost time.

First off, let me describe our upcoming trip and some of the things we have been thinking about along the way.  We will be gone for a total of 24 days, flying internationally, self-driving from Rome, through Tuscany and onto Venice for 5 nights, 7 nights aboard a cruise ship, picking up another car in Venice, making an overnight stop in Verona to see Adele,  then heading south into Campania to stay with friends for 8 nights, before flying back to Southwest Florida.

We will be traveling the first 12 days with great friends so with this in mind and knowing what traveling in Italy is like, we are not packing like we'd normally pack for a 24 day trip.  We are limiting ourselves to one medium sized soft-sided checked bag and a small carry-on each -- this way we can make sure all four of us will fit into a mid-sized European model car with our bags.  I don't know about you but after living and driving in Italy for 2.5 years, I wouldn't drive a mid-sized US sized car in Italy.  The roads are too narrow and gas prices too high. The second constraint has to do with logistics of moving bags from available parking to hotel rooms which can be fairly far and sometimes without elevators to 2nd or 3rd story rooms.  So keeping size and weight of our bags in check was an important part of our preparations.

The bags we're taking have been with us for years - Valerie will be filling an REI soft-sided wheelie duffle - the Wheely Beast 28" Wheeled Duffle.  We bought two of these when we were limited to 20 kilos of soft-sided luggage for a Botswana safari 11 years ago.  They are still going strong, well made, have lots of space, are fairly lightweight, have a good set of wheels and a strong frame.

My bag is a Red Oxx Air Boss that I bought 9 years ago when I started flying about 150k miles a year and got tired of checking a bag for every flight.  It is bullet proof but requires really efficient packing and an external set of wheels (Samsonite Compact Folding Cart) for convenient airport transits.  It has three separate strapped compartments and is recommended by the "One Bag" travel guru - http://www.onebag.com/business-bags.html - as their selection for business travelers.  It has served very well for both business and leisure travel over these past 9 years.

One of the things we realized on our last trip was that ensuring we are drinking "good" water is important.  We are always dragging bottled water onto our cruises because the cost aboard can be a bit stiff from time to time.  Additionally, any way you cut it, buying water in plastic bottles just contributes to landfill issues - especially since recycling isn't consistent from place to place.  So in order to get "greener" and save some money, we decided to travel with our own water purifier.  Yes, I know, we're trying to save space and weight but having good water available is really important -- and forget about cruise ships, have you bought water in an airport lately?  Ouch...  So for our cruise and air travel needs, we checked into backpacker friendly purification (vice filtration - this way we ensure viruses are dealt with too...) options figuring when you carry everything on your back, you are optimizing efficiency vs. weight.  We bought the Camelbak All Clear - http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Backpacking-Water- Filter-Reviews/CamelBak-All-Clear To this we added a second Camelbak bottle to balance out my laptop backpack and give us about 1.5 quarts of water total.

Since the Camebak UV purifier is recharged via USB, it travels perfectly since I just hook it, along with our phones and ipads, to the USB ports on our laptops - saving us the weight of the little white recharger "cubes" that come with our Apple devices.

Navigating overseas is easy these days since we have GPS, right?  Whoops, does your navigation system need access to Wi-fi or Cell Data while you are driving or walking?  If so, this is going to be an expensive proposition.  We chose to avoid this issue a few years back by purchasing Co-Pilot Live - US and European versions for our Iphones and Ipads.  We have tested this extensively in Europe and are as happy with it as with any other GPS (they always manage to screw you up at least once or twice every trip) and the app works just fine with your phone in "Airplane" mode. https://copilotgps.com/us/

One good tip with respect to your GPS before you leave the comfort of home Wi-Fi is ensuring that all of your maps are updated (many megabytes of downloads) and that you can actually find the places you are traveling to.  This can be a challenge in Italy where there are a number of different ways to describe various roads.  Way easier to check and then double check using Google Maps where you are going before you leave and then add each stop into your favorites to eliminate fumbling around when you are driving a new car in a different and sometimes challenging driving environment.

I think my next pre-departure post will show my wardrobe and bag packing - I spent a fair amount of time (and tested the "Bundle" method on my last trip) researching this subject for our Italy trip...
Bundle Packing Video
Ciao'